Beginning with the ancient civilizations of Greece, Rome, and Egypt, barber shops have historically been a place where men have gathered for not only a haircut, but often for friendly talk about local happenings, politics, news, weather, sporting events, and anything else under the sun. Barber shops in various historical periods provided services in addition to haircutting, such as baths, massage, shoe shines, food and drink, entertainment, tooth pulling, blood letting, and even surgery! Prior to the advent of an easy-to-use, mass-produced safety razor in the early twentieth century, a large percentage of men would visit a barber regularly-- sometimes several times a week-- to have their faces shaved. All these factors went into making the barber shop an important gathering place in the lives of many men throughout history. The cutting and styling of women's hair has also been part of the history of barber shops, though the popularity of that trend has waxed and waned in certain locales and time periods. In general, today's barber shop (as opposed to a styling salon or a haircut chain) is considered by many to be primarily a men's domain, though some shops also cut women's hair, and some feature female barbers.
Though "old school" barber shops have declined in number over the past few decades, there are still many men who enjoy the atmosphere and barbering skills found in their neighborhood shop. For men who wear short hairstyles such as crew cuts, flat tops, high and tights, fades, butches, and ivy leagues (more on these styles below), a good barber shop is usually their best and most economical choice.
First time in a barber shop?
If you've never been to a barber shop before, the experience can be quite different from a hair salon or a discount haircut chain. Unlike more upscale hair salons, most barber shops offer quality haircuts at affordable prices; usually, you can plan to pay somewhere around $10-$15 for a haircut (give or take a few dollars, depending on the locale). While most salons and haircut chains do not offer facial shaves, many barber shops routinely offer shaves, often including warm lather and sometimes a hot face towel.
A few barber shops may request that you make an appointment before you visit, but most shops operate on a "first-come, first-served" basis. When you enter a first-come, first-served shop, take note of who was already waiting ahead of you, and keep a mental note of your place in the order as new people enter, so you'll know when it is your turn. (Newer shops may use sign-in lists to minimize confusion.) It is customary when you've entered an unfamiliar shop to take the next available barber when your turn has come up. However, once you have established a relationship with a particular barber in a shop, it is perfectly acceptable to wait for that barber when your turn comes up. For example, if it is your turn to get a cut, but your favorite barber, Sam, is still cutting another guy's hair, you can simply say, "I'm going to wait for Sam." Unless someone else who was ahead of you is also waiting for Sam, you'll be next in his chair.
Once seated in his or her chair, your barber will ask a few questions about how you would like your hair cut, at least until he gets to know your preferences and style. He or she may ask when your last haircut was, whether you wish to simply trim the style you currently have, whether you would like a blocked or tapered neckline (details below), if you would like your sideburns trimmed, if you would like a part in your hair, if you want your neck shaved, if you would like your beard trimmed, if you've like a full shave, and so on. If you request a very short cut, your barber may ask if you know the clipper blade number that you prefer. Keep in mind that different clipper manufacturers may use slightly different numbering systems for their blades and attachments (more on clippers below). If you have a specific, traditional style in mind (such as a crew cut or a butch), feel free to request it, but understand that these styles can be interpreted slightly differently from barber to barber. It may be wise to describe specific details you are looking for until your and your barber become more familiar with one another.
Unless your hair is very dirty, most barbers will not shampoo your hair before cutting. Depending on the preference of the barber, he or she may use clippers or shears (haircutting scissors) to cut your hair; one is not necessarily better than the other, as they are both means to an end. Your barber may use warm lather and a straight razor to clean up the outlines of your cut around the ears and neck.
Payment is usually given directly to the barber who cut your hair at the end of the cut, and tipping is customary (between 15-20% is appropriate for most areas of the country).
Finding a good barber
The easiest way to find a good barber is to ask around. Seek out men with good-looking short haircuts and ask them what shop they go to. Most guys who have a good barber are happy to pass along his or her name. If you have a particular type of hair (i.e., very curly, nappy, very straight, receding hairline, etc.), try to ask for barber shop advice from men who share that feature. For example, some shops are especially skilled in cutting the various textures of black men's hair.
Because barber shops are often social gathering places for men, you may also want to find a place where you enjoy the environment. Some shops are constantly full of boisterous talk and high energy, while others are more slow-paced and relaxed. Some have markedly older clientele, some serve mostly younger men. Some shops are "hip" and modern, while others make you feel like you stepped back in time when you walk through the door. There are single chair shops and multi-chair shops, shops that have the radio or television playing, shops that are quiet, shops that cater to military-style cuts, shops that do lots of businessmen's cuts, and so on. In short, there are lots of unique barber shops out there, and you might want to try out a few before you find your favorite.
Ultimately, you want to find a barber shop where you get a great haircut and an enjoyable visit to boot.
