Summarized below are a number of haircutting terms; these are provided so that you are able to better communicate with your barber when trying to describe your preferred haircut. If you'd like to learn more about the basics of hair itself, you may also want to read the male pattern hair loss page, which has a section devoted to explaining hair structure and growth patterns.Arch
The area just above and behind the ear; the outline of the cut connecting the sideburn area to the hair at the side and back of the head. Everyone has a natural arch, and many barbers will try to trim the arch in a way that simply cleans up and enhances the natural arch. Cutting a lower-than-average arch can minimize large ears, and cutting a higher-than-average arch can make small ears appear larger. However, if an arch is trimmed too high or too sharply without proper blending, it may look awkward when it grows out.
Bangs
Hair in the front of the head that is worn down over the forehead; sometimes also called "fringe." Bangs can be long or short, and can be worn straight down or combed to either side. Some men wear bangs to cover a large or prominent forehead, or a slightly receding hairline.
Blocked nape versus tapered nape (or, blocked neck edge versus tapered neck edge)
A blocked nape refers to cutting the hair straight across in a definite line where the hairline meets the back of the neck (the nape). It is sometimes also referred to as "squaring off" the nape. A tapered nape refers to a gradual decrease in the length of hair at the back of the head to zero, following your natural hairline. Both are shown in the illustration below for comparison.
A barber will usually ask if you prefer a blocked or tapered nape. If you have a skinny or long neck, blocking can add the illusion of width. A tapered nape will look good on a short or thick neck. In general, a tapered nape tends to look a bit neater and more natural than a blocked nape once your hair starts to grow out a few days after the haircut.
Clippers, blades, and attachments
Electric clippers utilize different-sized detachable blades or plastic guard attachments to cut hair to a uniform length. They can also be used with special tapering attachments or combs for blending. Clipper blades and attachments are usually categorized by numbers. Generally, the smaller the number of a blade, the shorter the cut; when blades and attachments are labeled "0" (zero), the more zeros, the shorter the cut (i.e., a 00000 blade cuts shorter than a 000 blade). The exact length of hair left by a clipper blade will depend on the manufacturer and model number of the clippers. Three very common clipper manufacturers used by barbers are Andis, Oster, and Wahl; some of their common blade numbers are shown below.
Crown
The top, rear portion of the head, usually where hair growth begins in a swirl pattern.
Layering
Layering refers to cutting hair at different lengths throughout the hairstyle. Layers can be blended so that you cannot see where one length leaves off and another begins, or they can be left unblended, giving a chunky appearance. Layering can help remove bulk and weight from areas where hair is generally left longer, like the top of the head. Layers can be uniform throughout, such as trimming every hair on different parts of the head to approximately the same length (instead of being cut longer in the center and shorter around the edges). Some kinds of layered cuts can give a more modern, "messy" look when hair gel or pomade is applied. In short, layering is a means to an end, and it doesn't refer to a single specific style.
If you are getting a short hairstyle and want it layered, you can ask your barber for a layered cut. However, if you decide to wear a layered style that is very long (several inches or more on top), you might want to go to a men's hair stylist where they specialize in longer men's cuts. Barbers can certainly cut longer men's styles-- some are quite good at it-- but in general, most barber shops specialize in shorter men's cuts. Choose a shop that can do the best job with the styles you like to wear.
Part
A line of scalp (usually running parallel with the sides of the head) that can be seen when sections of hair are divided and combed in opposite directions. A part can be made on any style where the hair is long enough. In the recent past, the conventional side for men's hair parts was the left side, but hair may be parted on either side, or in the middle. The natural part begins at the crown, which can occur on either side of the head. See also "crown."
Shaving
In the context of hair cutting, shaving refers to the act of wet shaving, which is not the same as using a clipper or beard trimmer on its lowest setting. Having your head or face shaved smooth is different from having your hair clipped down to almost nothing.
Taper
The word "taper" refers to the act of creating a gradual, smooth change in hair length from one part of the head to another (for example, starting the hair very short at the neck edge, and gradually increasing the length of hair as you move toward the top of the head). A taper shows no abrupt lines or steps where the hair suddenly looks longer or shorter. Most short cuts employ at least some tapering, though where the tapering begins and how tight it is will depend on the style and preference of the wearer. A "taper" cut is a general name for a cut that gets progressively shorter as the hair approaches the nape of the neck. You can have a longish taper cut or a very short taper cut-- what makes it a "taper" is the subtle graduation in length.
A frequent question asked by barbers is whether you would like a "tapered" neck or a "blocked" neck. See "blocked nape versus tapered nape," above, for an illustration and explanation of the pros and cons of either style.
Thinning
The removal of some hair, usually on the top, to reduce thickness or volume, and to help shape the hair into a certain style. Thinning can be done using regular haircutting shears, special "thinning shears," or a razor.
